Grassroots Motorsports: The Hardcore Sports Car Magazine

Lots of folks fantasize about becoming a race car driver one day. Whether they picture themselves as Fangio in an Alfa Romeo, Andretti in a Lotus or Randy Pobst in a Porsche 911, they know the life of a racer is for them.

Unless, however, they have the raw natural talent–and a sugar daddy to pay the bills–making the transition from daily commuter to race driver can be a long and sometimes painful road.

There is an easier alternative–a way to experience real, live motorsports competition without risking dents, financial ruin and a torn-up car. Yet despite this ease of entry, this sport is still very much underground.

Welcome to the world of autocrossing.

What’s an Autocross?

Autocrossing in one form or another has been around for years. In fact, this magazine catered solely to this market when we debuted as Auto-X back in 1984. Basically, autocross–called Solo II by the Sports Car Club of America–is a time-trial event in which one car a time competes against the clock on a pylon-lined course that’s typically 30 to 60 seconds long. Fastest time wins. Hit a pylon and add two seconds to your time. It’s a sport where events–and championships–are lost by a blink of an eye and the width of a tire.

Adding to the challenge is that fact that you don’t get any practice runs. It’s a sport where you have to be able to go from standing still to full-on race mode instantly. You’ll get to walk the course a few times to get the gist of where you’ll be headed, but the clock will be running each time you’re in the car. Most events allow three or four runs, but there is still almost no room for error.

To keep things fair, competitors are placed in different classes depending up their car type and modifications made to it. A lot of clubs, SCCA included, then break the groups into Open and Women’s classes. Check the sidebar for more info as to where you and your car will wind up (but don’t get too wrapped up in classifications at first–the main goal here is to have some fun).

Getting Started

The ease of getting involved in autocross is one of the sport’s main attractions. Most any vehicle (no lifted trucks) and practically any driver (over 16, please) can compete, whether you’re a kid with an import drag Civic, an old-timer with a Bugeye Sprite, a soccer mom with a Saturn or a daily commuter with a BMW 3 Series. Everyone is invited.

First thing you need to do is find an event in your area. Check our Coming Events section, call your local SCCA Region, surf the Internet or hunt down a nearby sports car club, because odds are there’s an event somewhere near you in the next week or so. As autocrossing requires a nice, flat piece of pavement, most events take place at parking lots or airports.

If you can’t find a local event, yet really want to participate, e-mail us–maybe we can help you find a local outlet.

Once you have found where the next event will take place, make plans to show up bright and early. (The sign-up info should be available from the club.) Since most autocrosses start early in the morning, don’t plan on partying too much the night before.

Before heading out, there in one basic item you must have with you: your state-issued driver’s license. Most clubs require one before letting you out on course. You should also bring along some money for entry fee (typically about $15), as well as something to eat and drink during the day. Since you’ll be outside all day, dress appropriately and bring some sunscreen. Autocrosses are also generally held rain or shine, too.

When you get to the site, look for someone who seems to be in charge. Simply walk up to them and repeat these all-important words: “Hi, this is my first autocross. Where do I go?”

From there, you should be in good hands. The people at the event will show you where to register, how to fill out the required forms, where to take your car so it can get teched, and where and when the drivers meeting will take place. Most of the time, the registration people will be easy to find, either sitting at a table or in a small trailer.

This is Safe, Right?

For the most part, autocrossing is no more dangerous than driving to work. Actually, it should be safer, because in theory there are no drunks autocrossing. Also, autocross courses are set up to keep everyone under 60 mph. While that may sound slow at first, trust us when we say it feels a lot faster–especially the first time you spin out.

Still, a helmet is often required for autocross competition. Actual specs may vary from club to club, but many follow the SCCA’s lead and require a Snell M90, SA90 or better rating. Loaner helmets are usually available, although having your own will definitely give you one less thing to worry about.

That’s about if for the safety gear that you’ll need to buy. At the event, someone will run your car through a basic safety inspection, but any decent street-driven car should pass. Basically, they’ll check the condition of your throttle return spring, battery hold-down (no bungie cords), lug nuts, wheel bearings and seat belt (factory ones are okay). They will also make sure your brake pedal doesn’t go all the way to the floor when depressed, and they’ll look to see that no cords are showing on your tires. Of course, no one says you can’t go above and beyond and have your mechanic give the car a thorough once-over before the event.

Car Prep

Even though autocrossing is no faster than driving on the highway, some simple car prep should be done before you head out. Mainly, make sure everything is properly tightened down. A loose suspension component will only flop around and cause more havoc when you’re pushing the car to the limit.

You should also re-torque your lug nuts (check your owner’s manual for the specs) and top off any fluids (brake fluid, engine oil, coolant, etc.). Since your tires will also be stressed a bit, pump them up to their maximum inflation. This will keep the sidewalls stiff and give some better handling. While tire pressure adjustment is a very useful tuning device, as long as the car is not rolling the tires onto their sidewalls just leave them alone for now and concentrate on your driving.

You’ll notice that the fast guys will be on DOT-approved race tires, but for now your street tires will be fine. (We’re assuming no cords are showing). Race tires are faster, more predictable, better handling and last longer, so consider picking up a set sometime down the road. If you don’t have the budget for new ones, finding a used set and some pre-owned wheels shouldn’t be that hard. Just remember to be resourceful.

Before leaving home, you should also clean out your car. Having empty Burger King cartons, CD cases, magazines, tools, wayward farm animals and other stuff sliding around your car is both dangerous and quite distracting. That same goes for junk in the trunk.

What to Expect

Your first autocross will probably go by as a big blur, but basically here’s what generally happens.

First, you need to register and take care of any necessary paperwork. The registration people will assign you a number (or you can choose your own) and tell you where to go for tech. At tech, someone will check the basics we just talked about (lug nuts, throttle return spring, etc.). Some clubs will allow shoe polish numbers on the windows, but professionally cut vinyl looks way better without costing a mint.

After tech, you should have some time to walk the course. Try to pay close attention when doing this, or there’s a good chance you’ll find yourself lost out there among a sea of pylons. Find someone who has done this before and see if they’ll let you walk the course with them.

Expect a driver’s meeting before the first car is sent out. Here the officials will welcome the beginners, go over some basic rules of the day and announce the schedule. Generally, you’ll be broken up into work-run groups, which means you’ll work while others race, and vice versa. Duties can include working at timing and scoring, writing down people’s times, or chasing after knocked-over cones. If you’re new at this, volunteer to pick up cones. Yeah, it’s hard work, but it’s usually best not to be in charge of timing and scoring at your first event. Also, while you’re out on course shagging cones you’ll get to watch the others run and will, hopefully, pick up some ideas.

When it’s your time to run, try to relax as much as possible. Sometimes some light stretching or deep breathing helps–anything to get the butterflies out of your stomach. Pounding a few beers before your run is not a recommended way to relax.

Before pulling up to the starting line, make sure you can comfortably reach the steering wheel and pedals. Since you’ll be making some big steering inputs, you may want to pull the seat a little more forward than usual to give yourself some extra leverage on the wheel.

This is a matter of personal opinion, but some drivers like to flip all of their mirrors so they can’t be distracted by what’s behind them. This also deletes the temptation to see whether or not you really hit that last cone in the slalom.

When it’s your turn to run, the starter will motion when it’s clear to pull up to the starting line. When you get the signal, go! Since the timers start when you actually break the start line–and not when you get the signal to go–you don’t have to launch the millisecond you see the green flag. On the other hand, don’t sit there all day either.

Once out on course, concentrate on being smooth, making deliberate steering, braking and throttle inputs. Most cars can run an entire autocross course in second gear, so don’t worry too much about shifting gears. We have seen novice drivers in souped-up Camaros downshift into first at every turn, and basically they are just wasting time and making extra tire smoke. If our BMW 318ti had enough torque to get around an autocross in second gear (and it did), then your car almost certainly does.

Also, try to make your best effort to stay on course. If you do leave the course, you’ll be scored an O/C (off course) or DNF (did not finish). Still, if you screw up and can easily get back on course, keep running to get the experience. Same goes for if you club a cone. Yeah, the two-second penalty will probably make that run’s time worthless, but there’s no reason you can’t treat the rest of the run as a practice session.

If you find yourself totally out of control, remember the basic line: “In a spin, both feet in.” Plant your feet on the clutch and brake pedal, and hopefully the world will soon stop spinning.

When you pass the finish line, slow down and get yourself under control. When cruising through the paddock to head back to the starting line for your next run, remember to drive very, very slowly. Lots of people are walking about, and it would be bad to run one over.

After you’ve had your fun for the day, remember to be a good guest and help pick up the course, thank the event officials, and make plans to attend the next event.

I’m Walkin’

Since walking the autocross is really the only practice you’ll get, try to maximize its usefulness. For some tips, we turned to multi-time Solo champ Danny Shields. Here’s his advice:

• At the start, plan to position your car to maximize your speed through the lights. Remember it’s okay to increase the distance before you get to the starting lights to give yourself a better running start.
• When looking at a turn, remember that a late apex will give you more speed on the next straight.
• Consider elevation changes: you’ll need to slow down for an off-camber turn while you can run faster through a banked one. Also, an uphill section before a turn means you can brake a little deeper.
• Watch out for rough patches (less traction).
• While in a slalom, try to rotate your car before passing each cone.
• Visualize the whole course. You need to be thinking at least one corner ahead of where you are.

Classy Guys

To keep things fair, autocross clubs break competitors down into classes depending upon the type of car and its level of preparation. This way, a Miata driver doesn’t have to worry about facing off against a guy in a Corvette. (And the Corvette driver doesn’t have to worry about the Miata–a very real possibility, since autocross tends to reward those with smaller, more nimble cars.) Also, NOC means “not otherwise classed.”

The SCCA is the big gun in autocross, and most independent clubs follow the SCCA rules anyway, so let’s take a quick look at the different SCCA Solo II categories, and the classes within them (each class offers both Open and Women versions). For official details, check the SCCA rulebook.

Stock

Despite the name, the SCCA does allow some modifications to Stock category cars: brake pads, front anti-roll bar, and shocks may all be changed. Any road wheel with the same dimensions as the original piece may be used, and most competitors run DOT-approved race tires. Exhaust systems may be changed after the catalytic converter. Cars are assigned one of nine Stock classes depending upon performance.

Body work: Stock.
Interior: Stock.
Suspension: Stock, but different shocks and front anti-roll bars are allowed.
Engine: Stock, but mufflers and air filter elements may be changed.
Wheels/tires: Stock-size wheels; DOT-approved tires.

Popular cars:

Super Stock: 1997+ Chevy Corvette, E46 BMW M3, Dodge Viper, 1993+ Mazda RX-7, Porsche Boxster S, 1998+ Porsche 911.

A Stock: Acura NSX, 1984-96 Chevy Corvette, Chevy Corvette ZR1, 1995-98 Porsche 911 non-turbo, Shelby Cobra, 1993+ Toyota Supra.

B Stock: Audi TT (225hp), E30 BMW M3, E36 BMW, 1963-82 Chevy Corvette, 1996+ Chevy Camaro SS, Chrysler Prowler, Honda S2000, 1987-91 Mazda RX-7 Turbo, 1990+ Nissan 300ZX Turbo, Porsche Boxster (non-S), Porsche 911 (non-turbo, NOC), Porsche 928, Porsche 944 16v, Porsche 944 Turbo, Porsche 968, Toyota MR2 Turbo.

C Stock: BMW 4-cyl, Lotus 7, Mazda Miata (1.8L), Porsche 914, Toyota MR2 Spyder, Toyota MR2 (supercharged).

D Stock: Acura Integra Type R, Acura RSX Type-S, Audi TT (180hp), BMW 3 Series (6 cyl, non-M, NOC), Honda Prelude VTEC, Lexus IS300, Mitsubishi/DSM Eclipse/Talon turbo, Subaru Impreza WRX, 2000+ Toyota Celica GT-S.

E Stock: Alfa Romeo 2000, Datsun 2000, Datsun 240Z-280ZX (non-turbo), Dodge Charger Turbo, Dodge GLH Turbo, Fiat/Bertone X1/9, Mazda Miata (1.6L), Mazda RX-7 (non-turbo), Pontiac Fiero V6, Porsche 924 Turbo, Porsche 924S, Shelby Charger GLH-S, Sunbeam Tiger, Triumph TR8, Toyota MR2 (non-turbo), TVR (4 cyl and 6 cyl).

F Stock: AMC AMX, BMW 5 Series (6 cyl NOC), BMW 6 Series coupe, 1988-93 BMW M5, Chevy Camaro V8, 1953-1962 Chevy Corvette, Datsun 280ZX Turbo, Ford Mustang V8, Ford Thunderbird (V8 and supercharged), Jaguar XJS, Lexus GS400, Lexus SC300, Mercury Capri V8, Mitsubishi 3000GT turbo, 1990+ Nissan 300ZX non-turbo, pre-1990 Nissan 300ZX turbo, 1993+ Toyota Supra non turbo, 1986-92 Toyota Supra turbo.

G Stock: Acura RSX, 1990+ Acura Integra, Chevy Camaro V6, Dodge Conquest turbo, Dodge Neon, Ford Mustang V6, Ford Contour V6, Ford Taurus SHO, Honda Accord V6, Honda del Sol VTEC, 1986-87 and 1999-2000 Honda Civic Si, Honda CRX Si, Mazda 323 GTX, Mazda MX6, Mazda Protege MP3, Merkur XR4Ti, MINI Cooper S, 1991-94 Nissan Sentra SE-R, Nissan NX2000, Nissan 200SX SE-R, Nissan 240SX, Saab (all turbos), Subaru Impreza 2.5 RS, Toyota Celica All-trac, 1994+ Toyota Celica GT and ST, VW Beelte 1.8T, VW Golf Golf/Jetta 16v, VW Scirocco 16v.

H Stock: Austin Mini, BMW (many 4 cyl), Chevy Cosworth Vega, Datsun 510, Dodge (many 4 cyl), Fiat 124 and 128, Honda Accord (4 cyl), 1989-91 Honda Civic Si, Honda CRX NOC, Lotus Cortina, Mazda MX-3, Mazda Protege NOC, MINI Cooper, MGA, MGB, Nissan Sentra NOC, Porsche 912, Subaru Impreza NOC, VW Rabbit.

Street Prepared

These are production cars that have been modified in excess of Stock category rules. Wheel, shock, spring, anti-roll bar, exhaust and intake specifications are pretty much free. Cars can run any size DOT-approved race tire, although cars may not be lightened with fiberglass or plastic body panels. Cars may also be updated and backdated (run select pieces from older or newer versions of the same model) according to SCCA rules.

Body work: Stock, although fender flares and front spoilers may be added.
Interior: Stock, although front seats may be changed.
Suspension: Alternate shocks, springs and anti-roll bars allowed.
Engine: Intake and exhaust may be changed.
Wheels/tires: Unlimited wheel sizes; DOT-approved race tires.

Popular cars:

A Street Prepared: 1997+ Chevy Corvette, Dodge Viper, Honda S2000, Mazda RX-7 Turbo, Dodge Viper, Lotus (many), Porsche 911, Porsche 944, Porsche Boxster, Porsche 914-6.

B Street Prepared: E36 BMW M3, Chevy Corvette, Datsun Z-car, 1993+ Toyota Supra.

C Street Prepared Acura Integra Type R, E30 BMW M3, Honda Civic, Honda CRX, Mazda Miata, Mazda RX-3.

D Street Prepared: Acura Integra GS-R (and NOC), BMW 2002, Dodge/Plymouth Neon, Datsun 200SX SE-R, Nissan Sentra SE-R, Fiat X1/9, 1999-2000 Honda Civic Si, Merkur XR4Ti, Saab 99, VW Corrado, VW Golf 16v.

E Street Prepared: V8 Camaro, V8 Firebird, V8 Mustang.

F Street Prepared: Datsun 510, Toyota Corolla GT-S, Triumph TR, VW GTI and Scirocco.

Prepared

These cars can either be prepared to SCCA Club Racing’s specs for Production or GT cars (as specified in the General Competition Rules), or built to Solo’s Prepared rules. Fiberglass body panels, radical engine internals, trick suspensions and massive lightening are all allowed.

Body work: Fiberglass panels allowed.
Interior: May be gutted.
Suspension: Attachment points may be moved; all hardware may be upgraded.
Engine: Engine internals very free; some limits on carbs or fuel injection.
Wheels/tires: Wheel specs listed for each car; cars can run on slicks.

Popular cars:

A Prepared: Lotus 7, Lotus Elan, Pontiac Fiero V6.

B Prepared: Chevy Corvette, Mazda RX-7, Porsche 928S, Porsche 944 turbo, Nissan 300ZX turbo, Toyota Supra turbo.

C Prepared: V8 Chevy Camaro, V8 Pontiac Firebird, V8 Ford Mustang, Chevy Monza, Merkur XR4Ti.

D Prepared: Austin Healey Sprite/MG Midget, Fiat X1/9, Honda Civic/CRX, Mazda Miata, Triumph Spitfire.

E Prepared: Acura Integra, BMW 2002, Datsun 510, Dodge/Plymouth Neon, Fiat 124, Ford Escort, Honda Civic, MGA, MGB, Opel GT, Saab 99, Toyota Corolla, VW Rabbit, VW Golf, VW Jetta.

F Prepared: Acura NSX, Datsun Z-car, Mazda RX-7, Porsche 911, Porsche 914, Porsche 944, Triumph TR6.

Modified

Single-seat, purpose-built race cars, as well as production cars modified in excess of the other rules, fall into Modified.

Body work: Open.
Interior: Open.
Suspension: Open.
Engine: Open.
Wheels/tires: Open.

Popular cars:

A Modified: Anything goes, minimum weight of 700 pounds and a minimum 72″ wheelbase.

B Modified: C and D Sports Racers, Formula Atlantics and Continentals.

C Modified: Formula Fords, Sports Racer 2000s and Spec Racers.

D Modified: Modified production cars under two liters.

E Modified: Modified production cars over two liters.

F Modified: Formula 500 and Formula Vees.

F125: 125cc shifter karts.

Street Touring S

A new category for slightly-modified, four- and five-seater street cars under 3.1 liters in displacement. No turbocharged cars are allowed, aside from some specific low-boost models.

Body work: Stock, although aero kits and wings may be added.
Interior: Stock, although any reclining front seats may be used.
Suspension: Alternate shocks, springs and anti-roll bars allowed. No limited-slip diffs aside from stock viscous types.
Engine: Exhaust system (including C.A.R.B approved headers) and air filter setups may be changed.
Wheels/tires: Unlimited wheel size up to 7.5 inches wide. No R-Compound Tires. Tires must be D.O.T approved with treadwear rating greater than 140.

Popular cars:

Acura Integra GS-R, Audi TT, BMW 325i, BMW 330i, Chevy Cavalier Z24, Dodge Omni, Ford Contour, Ford Escort, Ford Focus SVT, Ford Taurus SHO, Honda Accord, Honda Civic Si, Honda Prelude VTEC, Mazda 323 GTX, Mazda Protegé, MINI Cooper, Mitsubishi Mirage, Nissan 200SX SE-R, Nissan 240SX, Nissan Maxima SE, Nissan Sentra SE-R, Olds Cutlas Calais, Saturn SC2, Subaru Impreza 2.5 RS, Toyota Celica GT-S, Toyota Corolla GT-S, Volvo S40, VW Golf GTI, VW Jetta, VW New Beetle Turbo S, VW Rabbit GTI, VW Scirocco.

Street Touring X

This class is similar to Street Touring S, although larger engine displacements as well as factory turbochargers are allowed.

Body work: Stock, although aero kits and wings may be added.
Interior: Stock, although any reclining front seats may be used.
Suspension: Alternate shocks, springs and anti-roll bars allowed. Limited-slip diffs may be added.
Engine: Exhaust system (including C.A.R.B approved headers) and air filter setups may be changed.
Wheels/tires: Unlimited wheel size up to 7.5 inches wide. No R-Compound Tires. Tires must be D.O.T approved with treadwear rating greater than 140.

Popular cars:

Acura Integra Type R, MINI Cooper S, Subaru Impreza WRX.

Street Modified

A class for radical street cars–interiors must remain, but engine swaps, forced induction (less than 3 liters) and limited-slip differentials are allowed. Cars cannot be “sports car based” in SM, although SM2 allows true sports cars.

Body work: Stock, although aero kits, fender flares and wings may be added. Replacement front fenders and hoods are allowed.
Interior: Stock, although any reclining front seats may be used. Rear seat may be removed.
Suspension: Alternate shocks, springs and anti-roll bars allowed. Limited-slip diffs may be added.
Engine: Engine swaps are fine, provided the engine comes from the same family as the body. (In other words, an Integra-powered Civic is fine, yet a Lexus-powered Celica is not; check with the SCCA for exact specifics.) Engines less than 3 liters may receive forced induction.
Wheels/tires: Unlimited wheel size, R-compound tires.

Popular cars:

Street Mod: Acura Integra, Audi S4, BMW M3, BMW 3 Series, Chevy Camaro, Eagle Talon turbo, Ford Mustang, Honda Civic, Subaru Impreza WRX, Toyota Supra.

Street Mod 2: Chevy Corvette, Honda CRX, Honda del Sol, Mazda Miata, Toyota MR2.

national clubs

There are a number of national sports car clubs sponsoring a range of activities, including autocross. They break the country up into different regions, but each main office can put you in touch with their local group. Another resource can be found online; two popular autocross-specific sites are www.autocross.com and www.team.net for even more club links and info.

BMW Club of America
2130 Mass Ave #1A
Cambridge, MA 02140
(617) 492-2500
www.bmwcca.org

Miata Club of America
PO Box 920428
Norcross, GA, 30092
(770) 368-8002
www.miata.net/mca/index.html

National Council of Corvette Clubs, Inc.
PO Box 5032
Lafayette, IN 47903
(800) 245-VETT or (317) 447-7412
http://www.classicar.com/clubs/ncccblue/ncccblue.htm

Porsche Club of America
PO Box 10402
Alexandria, VA 22310
(703) 922-9300
www.pca.org

Sports Car Club of America
9033 E Easter Place
Englewood, CO 80112
(303) 779-6622
www.scca.org

regional clubs

These regional, independent clubs also sanction their own autocrosses.

Akron Sports Car Club
PO Box 1005
Akron, OH 44309-1005
(216) 833-3319

Autocrossers Inc.
Kurt Franke
2900 Normandy Drive
Ellicott City, MD 21043-3329
(301) 461-5743
http://realbig.com/ai/

Connecticut Autocross and Rally Team
Anita Evans
131 Woodbine Street
Naugatuck, CT 06770
(203) 729-7164

Council of Motorsport Clubs-Rocky Mtn.
Tom Blanchard
2830 North Ave #C-303
Grand Junction, CO 81501
(970) 523-1669

Equipe Rapide Sports Car Club
6051 SW 45 Street
Davie, FL 33314
http://carlc.boca.net/er.html

Fairfield County Sports Car Club
19 Knollwood Road
Norwalk, CT 06854
(203) 926-8552
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/wdv

Highlands Sports Car Club
PO Box 19108
Asheville, NC 28806
(704) 891-8855

Madison Sports Car Club LTD
PO Box 14376
Madison, WI 53714-0376

Midwestern Council of Sports Car Clubs
3618 E. 1769 Road
Ottawa, IL 61350
(815) 434-9999
www.execpc.com/~mcscc

National Auto Sport Association
PO Box 21555
Richmond, CA 94820-1555
510-232-NASA

North Hills Sports Car Club
108 West Littleport Street
Pittsburgh, PA 15223
(412) 486-9196
http://www.fyi.net/~helgeson/nhsc

Porsche Owners Club
PO Box 9000-277
Seal Beach, CA 90740
(714) 779-8695

Tarheel Sports Car Club
3313 Corsham Drive
Apex, NC 27502
(919) 662-7502
http://www.netedge.com\`gtf\tarheel\tarheel.html

Tidewater Sports Car Club
Tom Stangler
911 Chimney Hill Pkwy
Virginia Beach, VA 23462
(804) 421-3041

Trans Louisiana Autocross Championship
Patty Lee
400 N. Starrett Road
Metairie, LA 70003
(504) 467-8910

Tri-State Sports Car Council
2414 N. Pine Ave
Arlington Hts, IL 60004
http://homepage.interaccess.com/~nxracer/tristate/tsscc.htm

Triad Sports Car Club
PO Box 23
High Point, NC 27261
(910) 954-9575
http://www.auto-x.com

Virginia Motor Sport Club
PO Box 512
Midlothian, VA 23113
(804) 320-7822